A Travellerspoint blog


Fontainebleau: The Forest and the Climbs

rain 10 °C

Summary of boulder areas:
Saturday: Gorges d'Apremont at Apremont, at main forest area
Sunday: Roche aux Sabots at Les Trois Pignon, near Noisy-sur Ecole
Monday: 95.2 at La Croix Saint Jerome at Les Trois Pignon


So, an introduction to Fontainebleau, pronounced fon-tan-blow, where tan is as in tanning in the sun. Fontainebleau is also colloquially known as font to English speakers or bleau to the French. It's a forest an hour South East of Paris with a lot of big rocks ie boulders, supposedly brought by glaciers a certain long time ago. There are various areas in the whole forest where there are specific problems (routes or climbs) on boulders that have been cleaned and prepped mostly by local climbers over the years. These problems and areas are listed and mapped out in many guide books, along with difficulty level. So yeah, lots of people come to font to climb, but it's also a very popular hiking destination.


In reality when you get to font you realise that there are many roads cutting through the forest. That's kind of sad, it's habitat fragmentation and it's really bad for the organisms living there. Filled tall trees (pine?) with almost no undergrowth in typical European fashion. And since it's really spring, it actually felt like a forest already with leaves and stuff. Besides the roads there are also paths through the forest, most originating in the various scattered carparks. To get to the boulder areas you need to check your guide book carefully.

The forest is indeed the expected forest in most areas, but towards the south end it's more like a desert or a beach. The sandy area is an interesting and surprising feature, we bouldered there as well as in the forested area.

I want to describe the boulder areas, because before I went and saw I could not imagine what it would really be like. Boulder areas look like fields of big rocks strewn around the place. Like the aftermath of a stone giant battle haha. Or the boulders like in Frozen. These boulders can be pretty spectacular in terms of shape, feature, overgrowth, and potential, and no picture I take can show how pretty and exciting it is to be there among them.


To borrow from Pocahontas, every rock and tree and creature has a life, has a spirit, has a name. When I began to look at them from the perspective of a climber, I honestly felt like each boulder had a different personality. Some were slabs, wet and tall and forbidding. Others had friendlier jugs but invisible footholds, and still more had sneering crimps and finger-breaking dead points. All, however, are of the Font pedigree, in which each problem is respected for its own specific personality and style, and not to be judged solely by the difficulty rating.

I can't remember many of the specific problems I attempted or topped, partly due to my, err, 24 hour memory but mostly because that's just me and not remembering problems happens a lot. What I do remember is that many boulders were too wet (some actually ponded or puddled) and some were too dangerous, like there was another rock near or at the landing zone. What limited us even more in our choice of problems was the difficulty. Noob as we are and ill-conditioned too, there were a lot of routes we simply didn't bother attempting. Font grading ranged from 2 to 8, we kept to the 3s and a few 4s. Which is about V2 to V4. NOOB. MUST TRAIN. ARGHHH.

One of my few flashes, probably a 3c in La Roche.

What I didn't really like was that outdoor bouldering basically always involves a top out, in which you actually climb to the top of the boulder, which involves mantling and probably a heel hook, almost every time. Why should I have to do that all the time. Huh. But what's worse is the coming down. Scared of heights as I am, finding the best and safest way down usually takes me twice as long as for everyone else haha.

Another thing I realise I don't like about outdoor climbing is that everything gets dirty. Next time I climb outdoors I'm going to bring hotel slippers so I can walk around without taking off my shoes and without getting them too dirty either. The dirtier and wetter the shoes, the more difficult to climb (and heart-pain too. Oh, my pearls.) Also when outdoor climbing you're susceptible to the vagaries of the weather so you don't get to climb crazy hard the entire day like at camp 5 haha.

Although I couldn't do a lot of the routes, I think I had a lot of fun. And my footwork may have improved, due to the famously small and poor footholds. Got to trust those footholds and stick! And quite possibly I feel a bit more inspired to go out and climb now, where before climbing in Nordwandhalle was like meh. Got to try the harder routes, and not push myself so much so as to get really pumped all the time. I should work on technique and certain moves rather than strength all the time.

I also now definitely want to go climb outdoor somewhere again. Font, yes, that place with which I have unfinished business. But others too, and in better weather! South Africa anyone? : )

Farewell to the forest

The deadpoint I couldn't do. 95.2, route 34, 4c. Start two hands on left, single finger-section crack, right foot on small but nice ledge thing. Lock off on left and reach for crack crimp side pull with right, cross-step into rubber-marked foothold, very careful and controlled. Deadpoint with right hand for quite nice single-section crimp? To stick, must have a really strong right hand to take the momentum away from the wall. Otherwise, attempt to match feet on first foothold first, then step right foot over for better balance, but it's not much better.

95.2, route 22, 3c This one was a second attempt top for me. Involved a really fun left hand cross over. Worked my way to right hand in the big undercling/sidepull, left hand on the jug. On my first attempt I tried to use the slopers but they're really bad. So later, with right foot on the good ledge below the big hole (and not heeling in the hole, that's too far in for balance) I reached up with my left hand into a really good stretch for the jug right on top. Shiok. This route was fun. Credit to wj for the beta! Haha.

Unmarked but heavily chalked overhang, looks really really fun. But the chalk was wet and slimy, did not want to hold that. Unfortunately. Sigh.

Posted by seaskimmer 15:54 Archived in France Tagged rain paris france forest climb outdoor Comments (0)

Fo(u)ntaine-bleau: Transpired events

rain rain go away?

rain 10 °C

Excited! Good sandwiches. Weird sleep. Good conversation. Cool girl. Excited to re-meet people. Unsure about similarity of past and present. Pleasant and not-so pleasant re-meeting.

Excited to climb and see boulders. Depressed about cold and rain. Many frustrated attempts. Triumphant first top. Proud first flash. Annoyed about noobness. Unsure. Annoyed. Unsure about validity of annoyance. Musing on group dynamics. Tired. Hungry. Wet. Cold. Unsatisfied. Full. Good food. Food production line. Future trip discussion. Trepidation about new group dynamics. Sad about departures. Peacekeeping. Mirror lake. Sunset. Awkward silence. Early mornings. Better weather. Better climbing. Failed dead point. Successful traverse. Hug for last boulder. Farewell forest. Mad cleaning showering packing rush. Bad directions. Awkward farewells.

Early for train. Ben hur. 6 women. 2 Danes, 2 French, 1 German, 1 Singaporean. 2 pairs of mothers and daughters. 2 lone travellers. 1 passed ticket inspection. Window-watching. Carrefour discount pain au chocolate. Ben-Hur again. Early night at ten. Late morning at 8.10. Rushed out of train at 8.15. Hope nothing forgotten. Home again.

with German girl K and other guy in our cabin. He was on the way for a Northern Spain road trip by himself : ) I want to do that too!

Well! The long awaited trip to the mecca of bouldering arrived, with plenty of rain to boot.

The overnight city night line round trip tickets were the first tickets I bought after my round trip from Singapore to Frankfurt. So obviously I was pretty excited about it. I'd gathered all the nus climbers on exchange in Europe to go on this trip together, that's yz, yk and p. Wj, yz's friend, an mir guy joined us too. After planning stuff over fb chat, the car and accom etc was settled and all that was left was to hop on the train. After a 3 month wait, away to Paris I went!

Met p in gare d'lest, then we went over to wagram to meet yz and wj for our awesome one Michelin star lunch hehehehe. We ordered the L'agape cheapest set lunch for 39 eur per person, with a glass of wine (12) and P and I shared the cheese platter at the end (19/2). The whole meal was so good and high class haha. Everything cooked to perfection, tons of appetisers, the pork so tender and juicy, the imaginative rosemary ice cream THE BOMB. And lovely sabayon, just amazing. Free flow of good bread and butter. Mmm. And the cheese was lika whoo whoo. Most expensive meal I will ever pay for on exchange, probably the best too. Very nice restaurant, they had the Japanese toilet and spiced handsoap, not to mention actual fabric towels to dry your hands with.

yz caught unaware at the restaurant

Got the car, got groceries, had pizza dinner, picked yk up, drove to font! Settled in for the night, I almost worried about sleeping arrangements but in the end pulled out the spare mattress for the bed of my own lol. Packed sandwiches with tomato, lettuce, ham, with sautéed mushrooms coming in the morning.

random leaf insect in the house. It occupied a dining chair for the entire evening.

Saturday morning arrived at 6am. It was a relatively long breakfast. Lots of toast with one of the following spreads: butter, Nutella, crunchy ovaltine alternative, mousse de canard. Also on the menu were soft boiled eggs, initially meant to be hard boiled but lucky for me the time was underestimated haha.

Out then into the cold, we drove around, got a bit lost here and there despite gps (French roads are not very good. Furthermore the places we wanted to get to were merely green spaces on the map, no paths included), and by the time we got to Gorges d'Apremont it was maybe about eleven?

night shade? Flowers along the wrong way to La Roche, but the right way to Saint Jerome which we went to on the last day.

It was raining and all the holds were wet and basically nothing really could be done. So we returned to our bnb to eat our packed lunches haha. Out to Carrefour where we bought bread, and then cheese and butter and mousse to bring back to our respective places haha. Drove out at 3 maybe to rekky La Roche aux Sabots, the desert area. From 3 to 7 was a drier period, but the rocks would still be too wet to really climb. Thus we tramped around looking at the problems, more excited for the next day.

p can sleep anywhere, anytime

Back to bnb to cook dinner. P and wj are pretty much amazing cooks so yz and I admitted to noobery and did manual labour haha. While they cooked, we helped to pack sandwiches for Saturday's lunch. That involved washing lettuce and cutting mushrooms and tomatoes, and buttering the bread. Compared to p and wj, who made the carbonara and baked chicken respectively. Dinner was great, I was super full because we wanted to finish the packet of Ja! pasta. We also had a bottle of Borsdeaux that the owners bought for us! That was nice. And after we washed up and showered I got out the cheap port I bought at Carrefour haha. I love port. Then sleep.

Sunday we attempted to get out a little earlier. It was a cold cold morning of maybe 7 degrees. I was wearing the clothes I'd intended to wear only for the train rides (tank and long sleeve) below my rockmaster top. And my windbreaker over that, but the rockmaster top was off once I began to climb. And wearing both my adidas tights and my long grimpe climbing pants! We were out til about 1 or 2 when it really started to rain, so we just left. We went back out to the town to look for postcards and find a boulangerie or patisserie. I had a Grand Marnier Crepe : ) Then we went back so yz and p could pack and stuff while wj, yk and I cooked a very early dinner of pesto spaghetti and sauteed pork.


Thus had dinner at 5 plus, then we sent yz and p to the train station to catch their respective trains out of Paris. Both had to leave Font a day early due to school stuff (Monday exam, and unmissable Monday class). After that yk and I just used the wifi til before sunset, and wj took a nap. Then at 8.30 we drove out to catch the sunset at the Chateau gardens. In the end not much of a sunset could be seen, but the sky was very pretty and I saw a weird frog in the water. Slept v early that night (okay, 10pm).


We rose at 5am on Monday, cooked onion omelette and sauteed the mushrooms for lunch. Okay, it was mostly wj who cooked. But quick breakfast, and we were at 95.2 at a record time of 7am. Weather today was much better than previous days, although still capricious and given to change at a moment's notice. Drizzle, sun, and the occasional rain (rain in Europe is equivalent to drizzle in SG). I suppose the unpredictability of the weather was forecasted when every internet source gave a different forecast! But yeah, overall weather was good. Climbed til 12.15, when yes, I really did give the last boulder a hug. I'll miss Font : (

Last boulder :"( Route 8, a 5a haha. Probably involved a crazy high step on left hole, with handholds at the same height, then pull for high handhold. wj almost finished it, but too tired.
Farewell to the forest

Rushed to return the crashpads to the previously stoned Brit at the Gites (it was The House, free advertising now), then back to the bnb to clean the car and house and shower. The car was extremely dirty, if you can imagine the amount of stuff 5 people tramping through wet woods can bring in. I was vacuuming with the vacuum cleaner stretched from the powerpoint at the entrance of the door. Even shifted the car a few times so I could get the vacuum on both sides of the car, and the boot. After that we went off back to Paris to return the car by 5pm. Despite some poor directions, we got there early and none worse for the wear. Thankfully wj studies in France and has data (and thus google maps and gps).

Yup, said our goodbyes. I bought pain au chocolate (seems a staple to me now) for dinner and breakfast, and headed over to Gare d'lest to catch my 7.58 train. Again, I actually felt some withdrawal symptoms. Travelling with friends is so different from going to school here, just because I don’t have close friends here. Oh well that is travel. Switz is in 2 weeks, and Berlin/London/Scotland the week after. Then Munchen. Lol. Non-stop action from now.

OH AND LAST THING. Less related but not less awesome. So remember how my internet was supposed to be up on Friday? Well I got home, and checked with my laptop but it didn't work. Then checked with S's internet (hers worked). Was sad cos I still didn't have internet. But then went to school and downloaded a LAN driver and got home and VOILA internet is here! Best homecoming ever : ) okay not really but you know what I mean.

Posted by seaskimmer 14:58 Archived in France Tagged rain paris france forest climb outdoor Comments (0)

Paris: a mixed bag

sunny 19 °C

Jardin Luxemburg, the first green garden in one month! All the trees have the young delicately green leaves of early spring, and I finally feel like I'm in an actual park.

So the plan today was to get to Paris at about 8, walk around the Luxembourg gardens, then be queuing at the Louvre by 8.30. I'll catch the 2pm sandeman tour, then walk over the Alexander Bridge, check out napoleon's dead body at the invalids hospital, view the eiffel tower, then be early for my 748pm night train to Hamburg.

From the beginning it was weird. I got confused with the the time, realised my phone was an hour fast, so I was up at 6am instead of 7. Then later as I left the Luxembourg gardens, I realised that my phone was correct. So it was then 945 and I was potentially facing a huge Sunday queue for the Louvre! Fortunately there was no queue, but I was so confused about the time difference that I asked for the time from two random people later on that day just to check. And I was very worried that I'd get the time for my train wrong haha.

Okay, so I left the Louvre at 1.30 so I'd have plenty of time to get to St Michel, where I initially got off. But I couldn't see anyone at the meet point and I was having trouble checking the meeting place etc on my phone. Eventually I realised that the tour started at 1pm, not 2pm. I'd assumed it would be 2pm and used that time in all my planning, because every other country did. I was sorely disappointed! Berating myself over and over for the next half hour. Sigh. But it's okay. I had an interesting time after that.

Here's the route I planned out for myself, complete with time I should leave each place. [edit: I wrote that with the assumption that I'd have lan for my laptop. I was wrong. No photo of the map now.] My first stop was the crepe shop at St Michel. An obstinate decision to console myself for missing the tour. So I paid money for a super yummy Nutella crepe! And later a citron macaron simply because I'm in France. Then I went round to all the places marked out.

At the hotel invalides, the only thing I really wanted to see was napoleon. I walked through all the way to the back, following the signs. And when I got there I saw that I needed a ticket to get in. I hung around, looked through the glass, and asked the security guy where exactly napoleon's crypt was. I thought it was the the thingy near the back that people were looking at, but no, it was at the bottom of this big circular hole. And from where i was standing (10m away) all I could see where the balustrades. The nice oldish black guy very kindly told me that I could go and get a free ticket. Doubtfully but hopefully I went. Doubtfully because I knew that the free ticket was for students from the EU only. But I went anyway, and just my luck, because the ticket counter was closed! 5min after I got there. Sigh. I went back to plead to the guy to let me in. Gave my best puppy dog eyes but basically big brother is watching. So my eyes never got to rest upon the coffin of the man who was a brilliant military genius but also an arrogant power obsessed tyrant. Sigh.

Slow walk to the eiffel tower from there. A few detours to attempt to get stamps (I swear, in Europe only post offices and tobacco shops sell stamps) (but it was Sunday and all the tabac shops were closed), and ham (because I needed some salty meat and all I had were chocolate pastries)!

Took some photos with the eiffel tower, took a bus to Gare D L'est. Glad I took it, because like that Internet source said, it was a fantastic way to have a bit of a city tour. I actually managed (by accident) to see the moulin rouge!! So cool.

In my cabin of 6 bunks, there are only 3 other people. There's an old Danish couple, really cool, they did a very long tour of Europe. Basically a big round trip from Denmark down as far as Paris, and they're going up to Hamburg and Kiel now. There's also this cool french dude, on Erasmus to Berlin. Does applied math. Lika woah okay. Nothing to do so we had a nice long chat about random things and he taught me some french haha. (C'est enorme, that's cool)

(Oh and he said my french pronunciation was not bad haha. Thanks E for the tutoring, now I can impress French people 8) )

Oh man so the train stopped and I heard someone knocking on cabin doors one by one. I thought it was the train people waking people up for their stop (apparently they do that, so cool!) but then a Polizei appeared and rapped smartly on our door. We gave her our passports. She stared at mine for a super long time and shone her torchlight alternately at my photo and directly at my face. No, like really really doubtful and looked for like 10 times, and she even used some kind of magnifying glass thing to check if my passport was fake. Asked me a few questions like going where, for what, studying what. Finally she asked her colleague who looked at it, looked at me, looked at it, then shrugged. So she let it go, albeit with much suspicion still on her face. Thankful there weren't some false allegations made against me. That would have been messy. Can you imagine, me an illegal immigrant? Lol. I finally believe people who say that I don't look like my passport photo. I can see the kind of problems it could cause. Time for a new photo!

Tomorrow will be my first day back in Hamburg! Yay! I'm excited. I want to go matriculate already and get my schedule partly so I can get some consistency in my life now but also so I can plan trips haha.

Au 'voir :)

Posted by seaskimmer 12:26 Archived in France Tagged paris france Comments (0)


sunny 15 °C
View SEP Pre-Trip on seaskimmer's travel map.

Alright, I know I haven't blogged about Belgium yet, but I promise I'll get to that tonight. I need to get Versailles out first!

But before that. Let me lament about how I accidentally left my key on a random bench in the gardens and thus have a lock on my bag and a useless lock in my other bag. A blight on my day, seriously.

Okay, so I paid 18 eur for access to all of Versailles, from the Chateau itself to the gardens and the Trianon out back.

The Chateau/palace was first, it was immensely grand and beautiful with adornment on everything you could imagine. History buffs would enjoy this part because there's a lot of busts around and the hall of battles (or something like that) is full of paintings of famous French battles. That was cool. And also just being where all the Louis and Charles of history had been.

I went out, walked through all the way to the Grand Trianon, bypassed the gardens partly by accident and partly because I wasn't sure how much time I'd have, and I'd rather have gone to the Trianon.

The Grand Trianon was very pink. It was done up much more tastefully and simply than the palace itself. The palace anyway was built and decorated chiefly to impress people and provide a subjugating influence on the subjects. On the other hand, the Trianon was built firstly as a hunting lodge and later as a private home residence for the royal family to escape the crowd sort of. So while the place is still big and expensive looking, it's much more livable.

The Petit Trianon was even more subtle and pretty. It wasn't built or commissioned by her, but Marie Antoinette lived in it, in its later years.

There were estates built by Marie Antoinette, the gardens and the Hamlet to the side of the Petit Trianon. The grounds are absolutely beautiful, and my favourite part of the whole palace of Versailles. The area was very landscaped and hence not real on that sense, but it felt so much more natural than the coiffed gardens of the palace. There were little pavilions studding the green, and (rather dry and empty) streams winding their way around. There were also features like little grottos and the Belvedere thingy. I think what took the cake were the little buildings for the servants (I think). They were little cottages that looked like they'd be more at home in an English countryside rather than a grand palace. They had thatched roofs and crumbly stone and mortar walls and each building was allocated to a different staff, like the gardeners. They were all arranged in front of a little pond (one end of the streams) and there was even a turret at one of them!!! Wheeee. There was also a farm, I didn't go all the way over but I could hear the roosters and chickens making a ton of noise. I got to see the sheep though haha. And cows.

I loved the gardens of Marie Antoinette. She was described to be a bit of a terrorising airhead, but her gardens are beautiful. Then again, I was also thinking about how huge and beautiful the grounds are in juxtaposition to the poverty the people were living in during the time of Louis XVI. No matter how wonderful the palace is, it still was a bit of a power grabbing and maintaining tool, when more money and attention could have been spent on making France a better place. No wonder the revolution occurred!

I wonder how Marie must have felt when she was being led to Madame La Guillotine. She was still young then, and her assumption that royalty is power, authority and respect no matter what must have been dashed on the way there. It's amazing how privileged the upper classes during that time were. I personally think that's a reminder to not have false elevations in Singapore or wherever. I honestly think that there's a lot the middle class in Singapore doesn't see (myself included, but I try to).

Okay anyway advice for anyone who might go: the gardens are much better than the palace so allocate time accordingly unless you're a history buff (out of the palace by 12, assuming you get in at 9). Go on a nice day to better enjoy the gardens. Go early when the park opens cos the queue is crazy. Spend the entire day there. Get the audio guide, it's free and worth it even though the initial queue is a bit longer. Get the map and guides from the tourist info office outside before you go in, instead of getting it later at the Trianon like I did. Bring food and water because the food there is obviously touristy and expensive. Be prepared to walk a lot. Be prepared to take lots of pretty photos.

PS no photos right now, might update with photos at a later date. Photos are in the camera right now, lazy to get them into a com. Don't expect photos from March on fb til April!

PS 2 I'm im Jouy-en-Josas now with S, who's studying here. Tomorrow we leave at night by plane for Dublin. I'm gonna relax the whole of tomorrow, my feet are hurting so bad.

PS 3 I think I shouldn't have brought my winter coat. Should've been like S2 who only brought 2 sets of clothes for 3 weeks haha. Hope Spain will be cold simply so I can justify bringing my winter coat and extra warm layers. Don't think I'll use my thick jumpers though sigh. Then again maybe it's just the particularly beautiful and warm weather recently. Which I do indeed thank God for!

Posted by seaskimmer 13:28 Archived in France Tagged france history versailles jouy-en-josas Comments (2)

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